The Best Cat Bowls: Which Type of Cat Bowl Is Best?

In this article
  1. What type of cat bowl is best?
  2. Shallow and wide: whisker fatigue and what the evidence says
  3. Stainless steel, ceramic, glass or plastic?
  4. Raised and tilted cat bowls
  5. Slow feeders and food puzzles
  6. Water bowls or a water fountain?
  7. How many bowls does a cat need?
  8. The best cat bowls
  9. How to clean cat bowls
  10. Frequently asked questions

For most cats the best bowl is a shallow, wide dish in stainless steel, ceramic or glass that sits still on the floor and goes in the dishwasher. A plate around 13 to 17 cm across with a low rim lets your cat reach every bite without pushing its face into a deep pot, and it is easy to keep clean. Plastic is the one material worth avoiding. A raised or tilted bowl helps older and flat-faced cats, and a slow feeder suits cats that wolf their food down.

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In short

What type of cat bowl is best?

Three things decide whether a bowl works: its shape, its material and how easy it is to clean. Get those right and the brand matters very little.

  • Shape: wide and shallow beats narrow and deep. Your cat can see and reach all of the food, and less of it ends up on the floor.
  • Material: stainless steel, ceramic or glass. They are non-porous, survive hot washes and do not scratch the way plastic does.
  • Weight and grip: a heavy bowl or a non-slip base stops the bowl from travelling across the kitchen while your cat eats.
  • Cleaning: dishwasher-safe and without hard-to-reach seams or grooves.
  • Your cat: a senior with stiff joints, a Persian with a flat face or a cat that inhales its dinner each have different needs. More on that below.

Shallow and wide: whisker fatigue and what the evidence says

Search for cat bowls and you will quickly meet "whisker fatigue" or "whisker stress". The idea is that a cat's whiskers are so sensitive that brushing them against the sides of a deep bowl at every meal is unpleasant. Supposed signs are a cat that scoops food out with its paw, eats only from the middle and leaves a ring of food around the edge, or hovers by the bowl looking hungry.

It is a popular idea, but the research behind it is thin. Two small studies have tested it so far:

  • Slovak and Foster (2020), Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery. Forty indoor cats ate from their usual bowl and then, after a week, from a dish sold as whisker-friendly. The new dish made no measurable difference to how long the cats spent eating, how much they ate or how much they dropped. When offered both dishes side by side, though, most cats chose the whisker-friendly one.
  • Ovcharova and colleagues (2026), Russian Veterinary Journal. Twenty-six healthy cats were fed from a narrow, deep bowl and from a wide, shallow one. They ate the same amount from both and showed no preference. The difference was mess: about four in ten cats dropped food from the deep bowl, none from the shallow one. The researchers concluded that whisker stress is not proven as a general problem. They still consider wide bowls worthwhile for practical reasons.

So the honest answer is that we do not know whether deep bowls bother most cats' whiskers. What is clear is that a shallow, wide dish is easier to eat from, spills less and does no harm. If your cat already eats happily from a deeper bowl, there is no need to replace it. If it scoops food onto the floor or leaves food at the edges, a flatter plate is a cheap thing to try.

Two exceptions. A cat that suddenly stops eating, or eats less, needs a vet check before a new bowl, because dental pain and illness are far more common causes. Our guide to a cat not eating explains when to worry. And very large cats such as Maine Coons may find a tiny saucer just as awkward as a deep pot, so size the plate to the cat.

Stainless steel, ceramic, glass or plastic?

The material decides how long a bowl lasts and how hygienic it stays. Here is how they compare.

Material Good points Watch out for Best for
Stainless steelPractically unbreakable, non-porous, dishwasher-safe, light to handleLight bowls slide or clatter without a rubber base. Buy food-grade (often sold as 304 or 18/8) steelMost cats, multi-cat homes, anyone who drops things
Ceramic and stonewareHeavy so it stays put, smooth glazed surface, many shapes and coloursCan chip or break. A chipped or cracked bowl should be replaced. Buy bowls sold as food-safe, especially from small makersCats that push their bowl around, owners who want something nice-looking
GlassInert, non-porous, easy to see when it is clean, often already in your cupboardBreaks if dropped on a hard floor. Choose thick, tempered glassWater bowls, cats with chin acne
PlasticCheap and lightScratches easily, and bacteria collect in the scratches. Linked to chin acne in some cats. Can make water taste of plasticTravel, as a short-term stopgap

Stainless steel cat bowls

Stainless steel is the most practical all-rounder. It does not crack or chip, it survives the dishwasher for years and it is cheap. The downsides are minor. A thin steel bowl is light, so it slides and rattles unless it has a rubber or silicone base. Check that the steel is described as food-grade, and replace a bowl if it starts to rust or pit.

Ceramic cat bowls

A glazed ceramic or stoneware bowl is heavy, which is its biggest advantage. Cats that nudge their dish along the floor while eating cannot move a solid stoneware saucer. The glazed surface is smooth and easy to clean. Two points to watch. Ceramic chips, and a chip or crack in the glaze is a place for bacteria to hide, so replace damaged bowls. And buy from a brand that states the bowl is food-safe or lead-free, especially if you buy handmade pottery.

Glass bowls

Glass is often forgotten, but it is one of the cleanest materials there is. A thick glass dessert bowl or a small oven dish works perfectly well as a water bowl and makes it easy to see whether the water is fresh. The obvious drawback is that it can break.

Plastic bowls and chin acne

Plastic bowls scratch quickly, and the scratches hold food residue and bacteria that a quick rinse does not remove. Feline chin acne, the small black spots or bumps on a cat's chin, is often linked to plastic bowls. Vets such as Dr Jennifer Coates at PetMD advise trying a stainless steel, ceramic or glass bowl first because it is the simplest change to make. She also points out that plastic is not the only or even the most common trigger, so if the spots persist, swell or seem sore, let your vet take a look. Plastic can also give water a taste that some cats dislike.

Raised and tilted cat bowls

A raised bowl stands a few centimetres off the floor, and a tilted bowl is angled towards the cat. Both mean your cat does not have to crouch as low or bend its neck as far.

Who benefits:

  • Older cats with stiff joints. Arthritis is common in senior cats and crouching low to eat can be uncomfortable. Owners of arthritic cats regularly report that their cat eats more readily from a raised dish.
  • Flat-faced breeds such as Persians and Exotic Shorthairs. A tilted, shallow bowl makes it easier to pick up food with a short face.
  • Cats wearing a cone after surgery, which often struggle with a bowl on the floor.

What a raised bowl will not do is cure digestive trouble. Manufacturers often claim that raised bowls stop vomiting or improve digestion. There is no good research in cats to back this up. Some cats bring food back up because they eat too fast, and a slow feeder (see below) addresses that more directly. Regular vomiting always deserves a vet visit. Our guide to food for cats with sensitive stomachs covers the causes and when to go.

A young, healthy cat does not need a raised bowl. If you want one anyway, keep it low. Your cat should be able to eat with its head slightly lowered, never stretching up.

Slow feeders and food puzzles

A slow feeder is a bowl or mat with ridges, bumps or grooves that make your cat work a little for each bite. Food puzzles go a step further: balls or toys that release kibble as your cat pushes them around.

They make sense for:

  • Cats that gulp their food and sometimes bring it straight back up.
  • Overweight cats on a diet, which finish the smaller portion too quickly.
  • Indoor cats that are bored. In the wild a cat hunts and eats many small meals a day. A bowl filled twice a day takes away all of that work.

A 2016 review in the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery collected cases where food puzzles helped cats lose weight and reduced problems linked to boredom and stress, such as attention-seeking behaviour. The authors advise starting easy, so your cat succeeds straight away, and making it harder bit by bit. Keep the regular bowl next to it at first. A cat that cannot get at its food will simply go hungry.

A lick mat is a good start for wet food and also works with a little lickable treat. If you use treats this way, our guide to healthy cat treats explains how many fit into a day.

Water bowls or a water fountain?

Cats are not big drinkers, so anything that gets more water into them is welcome. Water fountains are sold with the promise that running water does just that. The research is less clear. In a study published in the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery in 2018, 16 laboratory cats were given a still bowl, a circulating fountain and a free-falling fountain in turn. On average they drank the same amount from all three. Three individual cats did have a clear favourite, and each of them preferred a different type.

In other words, some cats love a fountain and most do not care. What helps every cat:

  • A wide water bowl filled to the brim, so your cat can drink without putting its head deep into a container.
  • Water away from food. Feline welfare guidelines from the AAFP and ISFM advise keeping food, water and litter in separate places. Many cats prefer to drink away from where they eat.
  • More than one water station in a house with several cats or several floors.
  • Fresh water every day in a clean bowl.
  • Wet food. It adds far more water to a cat's day than any bowl.

If your cat keeps drinking from the tap or dipping its paw in the water, a fountain is worth a try. Take it apart and clean it at least once a week and change the filter as the maker advises, because a slimy fountain is less hygienic than a simple bowl.

How many bowls does a cat need?

At least two per cat: one for food and one for water. In practice, having a spare set makes daily washing easy, because one set is always clean. In a multi-cat home, give each cat its own feeding spot, a little apart from the others. Cats are solitary eaters, and sharing a bowl can cause quiet stress or let one cat eat another's food.

The best cat bowls

We chose these by comparing what vets and feline studies say about shape and material with what UK owners report in their reviews. We picked one product for each need, because a senior Persian and a greedy young moggy need different bowls. All five were in stock on Amazon UK for delivery to a London postcode when we checked in October 2026.

What owners say about the Wellbro bowls

UK buyers mostly mention the same three things: the plates are much shallower than a standard pet bowl, the grippy base stops them being spun from one side of the kitchen to the other, and they come out of the dishwasher clean. One owner bought them to get away from plastic bowls, another uses them for a Ragdoll. German buyers report that their cats took to them straight away and that less food ended up beside the bowl. The reviews are positive, but there are fewer of them than for the bigger brands.

What owners say about the Mason Cash saucer

With nearly 4,000 ratings this is one of the most reviewed cat bowls on Amazon UK. Owners describe it as small, sturdy and simple, with a rim just high enough to keep food in. One buyer switched on the vet's advice because the cat was not eating properly. Another notes that it does not move when their kitten eats. The recurring complaint is breakage in transit: one owner received a broken saucer, and Amazon sent a replacement. Several people buy two so one is always clean.

What owners say about the Necoichi bowl

Many of the UK reviews come from owners of older cats. One describes an elderly cat with arthritis that eats much better from it, another a cat with arthritis in a front shoulder that no longer has to crouch. A third owner bought it for a cat that had to wear a cone for weeks after an operation and could not reach an ordinary bowl. Owners without a special reason say their cat simply makes less mess. The complaints are the price and the size, which several reviewers find smaller than they expected.

What owners say about the PETKIT stand

With more than 17,000 ratings this stand is a long-running favourite. One owner of two Persians says it is easier for their cats than ordinary dishes. An owner of two seniors likes being able to tilt one bowl for the shorter cat and leave the other flat. Others praise how firmly the bowls sit and how easily they clean. The critical notes are useful: one owner points out it will not stop a cat that likes to splash its water, and another had a screw break on one of the bowls.

What owners say about the LickiMat Casper

Most cats work it out within seconds, according to reviewers. One owner calls it great for greedy cats but advises supervision. Another had a cat that ignored it at first and later changed his mind once he understood how it worked. The most common complaint is cleaning: food sets in the grooves, so rinse it straight after use. One owner found that chunks in gravy slide off, and now only uses it for treats and smooth food.

How to clean cat bowls

A bowl is only as good as the way you clean it. The US Food and Drug Administration advises washing pet food bowls with hot soapy water after each use. Researchers at North Carolina State University tested that advice on dog bowls in people's homes. Bowls washed according to the guidance had far fewer bacteria a week later than bowls cleaned the usual way, and hot water worked better than lukewarm.

  • Wet food bowls: wash after every meal. Wet food should not sit out at room temperature for more than a few hours.
  • Dry food bowls: wash at least once a day, and do not top up old kibble with new.
  • Water bowls: fresh water daily, and wash the bowl every day or two. If it feels slimy on the inside, that is biofilm, and it needs a proper scrub.
  • Dishwasher: fine for stainless steel, ceramic and glass. Wash them on a hot programme.
  • Check for damage: replace chipped ceramic, cracked glass and scratched plastic.

A second set of bowls makes this much easier. Put the used set in the dishwasher and serve the next meal in a clean one.

Frequently asked questions

What type of cat bowl is best?

A shallow, wide bowl in stainless steel, ceramic or glass suits most cats. It is easy to eat from, does not scratch and survives the dishwasher. Choose a raised bowl for an older or flat-faced cat and a slow feeder for a cat that eats too fast.

Are stainless steel bowls good for cats?

Yes. Stainless steel is one of the most hygienic materials for a cat bowl. It does not break, does not absorb smells and can go in the dishwasher. Choose food-grade steel and a bowl with a non-slip base so it does not slide or clatter.

Are ceramic bowls safe for cats?

Ceramic bowls are safe as long as they are glazed with a food-safe glaze and undamaged. Buy from a brand that states the bowl is food-safe or lead-free, and replace a bowl once it is chipped or cracked, because bacteria collect in the damage.

Is whisker fatigue real?

The evidence is limited. Two small studies found that cats ate the same amount from shallow and deep bowls. One found that most cats preferred the shallow dish, the other that shallow bowls led to much less spilled food. A wide, shallow bowl is a sensible choice. A cat that has stopped eating needs a vet, whatever the bowl.

Why do vets say not to use plastic cat bowls?

Plastic scratches easily and bacteria collect in the scratches. Plastic bowls are also often linked to chin acne in cats, although they are not the only cause. A stainless steel, ceramic or glass bowl is an easy change to try first.

Are raised cat bowls better?

For older cats with stiff joints, flat-faced breeds and cats in a cone, a raised or tilted bowl can make eating more comfortable. For a healthy young cat it makes little difference. Claims that raised bowls improve digestion or stop vomiting are not supported by research in cats.

Should a cat's food and water bowls be apart?

Ideally, yes. Feline welfare guidelines advise placing food and water in separate spots, and many cats drink more readily away from their food. A double feeding stand is fine if your cat drinks from it happily.

How often should I wash my cat's bowl?

Wash a wet food bowl after every meal and a dry food bowl at least once a day. Give fresh water every day and wash the water bowl every day or two, with hot soapy water or in the dishwasher.

Can I use a human bowl for my cat?

Yes. A plain ceramic, glass or stainless steel bowl or saucer from your kitchen is perfectly fine, as long as it is shallow enough and you keep it for your cat. A side plate or a shallow dessert bowl often makes a better cat bowl than a deep pet bowl.

How many bowls should a cat have?

At least one for food and one for water, and preferably a spare set so you can wash them every day. In a home with several cats, give each cat its own food bowl in its own spot.

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